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Thursday, September 18, 2008

THE ROMANTIC HACIENDAS OF ECUADOR


For years I have dreamed of owning a large historic hacienda in some beautiful green valley in South America. Along with the acreage, I dream of stables filled with wonderful Arabians and good tempered Paso Horses that I can ride across pastures and hillsides.

I have always wanted to live that part of South American history written about by Isabel Allende (House of Spirits/ Portrait in Sepia and Daughter of Fortune). Daydreams can become reality in Ecuador.

A green gem of a country on the Pacific Coast of South America, the average elevation of Ecuador is above 5000 ft with a year round spring like climate. With more than eleven major peaks, (many of which are still active volcanoes) it is also a great country for trekking and mountain climbing. There are also many, many historic haciendas where you too, can live like part of the historic aristocracy. Once owned by the powerful and rich families of Ecuador, these haciendas were faced with extinction in the current economy. The inheritors of these historic places had to create a way to keep their lands as upkeep on an average 1000+ acres is very expensive. In recent years they have had to sell off portions of their properties to local farmers and large dairy farms so they can keep the hacienda homes, stables and horses. Others have turned these homes into wonderful boutique hotels where you can enjoy excellent food, ride their horses, hike or just settle down with a good book in front of a cozy fireplace.

Yes, you can live like South American aristocracy! Hacienda Zuleta is such a place. Owned by one of the first Ecuadorian presidents and creator of their Constitution… it has been passed down to his son (another of Ecuador's presidents) and now his grandson and current owner.. This hacienda boast stables with over 100 pure bred horses. Daily rides to the nearby mountains and valleys near the Cayambe Volcano provide scenic views for both the experienced rider or beginner. You can also visit nearby villages and the Otovalo Market which is famed for its weavings and colorful indigenous people.

At Hacienda Manteles just bring your riding boots …they will provide the rest. César Duran, the great grandson of the original owner, Ecuador's famed wood baron, offers his home for hikes through orchid forests and beautiful waterfalls all within his 700 acres. The hacienda is located in the shadow of the still active Tungurahua Volcano which at times spews forth a red glow and always a constant plume of smoke. The horses, cows and sheep on this hacienda roam the fields and nearby mountains as part of a project to teach locals about sustainable grown and organic farming. Meals are cooked with food raised and grown here using the wonderful recipes of the owner's wife, Guadalupe, which have been passed down to her by many generations of her family.

120 year old Hacienda Hato Verde is located at the foot of the Cotopaxi volcano. Home to the great grandson of this hacienda's original owner, Cesar and his wife Maria happily host you as part of their family…two kids included. You can ride horses from his stable, help milk the cows (if you want to) or hike up the volcano. César also loves to dance so ask him to put on some good Latin rhythms and learn to dance from a true South American gentleman. You can also visit the next door farm of Tambo Roses, one of the largest producers of Ecuador's main export. Roses from Tambo are shipped all over the world every day.

Nearby Hacienda Umbria at the base of the Corazon volcano with spectacular views of Cotopaxi offers a true gourmet experience. Owner Alvaro practices his favorite hobby as gourmet chef. He is also learning to be a world class sommelier so that he can offer guests exquisite wines from his large wine cellar. You can join Alvaro in the kitchen or help him pick out local cheeses to serve with the wine, or you can ride with him on horseback into his fields to pick which of the organically grown vegetables you would like him to serve for dinner. Everything he cooks is locally grown and raised. He also plans great hikes and rides throughout the 300 acres owned by his family.

To live like this for a week or a few days in a wonderful experience and a dream come true for me. It is true South American history but with all the modern conveniences of home. I have now lived my dream and hope to return again and again to enjoy more of the historic haciendas of Ecuador.

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